It’s when oil is introduced to the preparations that the trouble begins. Eggplant is a sponge and, given the opportunity, will soak up any oil in reach, which is why sautéing and deep-frying can leave it tasting heavy and greasy. Salting leaches out moisture and condenses the flesh, reducing its tendency to absorb and helping it stay crisp and light. This, I learned from The America’s Test Kitchen Family Cookbook , is an important step toward making a good eggplant parmesan. But the real key to achieving eggplant parmesan success is skipping the stovetop, frying-in-batches method altogether. America’s Test Kitchen’s method calls for baking the breaded eggplant on two preheated baking sheets, a step that not only saves time but also produces eggplant with superior taste and texture, emerging from the oven evenly golden without a hint of greasiness.